Lowcountry Cuisine Summer/Fall 2019

www.LowcountryCuisineMag.com | www.MountPleasantRestaurant.com | www.CharlestonRecipes.com lowcountry cuisine LC 39 learn to cook not just at the schools he opened but also in his own home. When he passed away in 1985 at the age of 81, the James Beard Foundation was created to carry on his legacy. The first James Beard Awards (JBA) were given in 1991. What chefs like Lata appreciate most about these awards is that they are judged mostly by their own peers: a panel of past winners. Matt Tunstall, co-owner of Stems & Skins, a wine bar in North Charleston and 2019 semifinalist in the Outstanding Wine category seconded this. “It means a lot to be recognized by other industry professionals on this level. It is the most prestigious award you can receive in this industry.” What is equally appealing is being part of an elite group. Chef Kevin Johnson of The Grocery, a 2019 Best Chef: Southeast semifinalist, explained, “Our region is full of talented chefs, and to be included on a list with my peers and those that inspire me is certainly an honor.” For 2019 Rising Star semifinalist chef Evan Gaudreau of Renzo, that honor was also unexpected. “Honestly, it came as a surprise,” Gaudreau said. “I was focused on the food and developing my style; it never occurred to me that we could be featured on a national platform this way.” Likewise, 2019 Outstanding Pastry Chef semifinalist Cynthia Wong was pleasantly surprised, more so because while she had been nominated in the past for her work at Butcher & Bee, this time it was for Life Raft Treats, her fledging ice cream truck business. “To be recognized for that by the James Beard Foundation blows my mind!” Is national recognition a blessing? Lata pointed out that while it certainly increases revenue and awareness of the restaurant, it also adds weight on his shoulders about expectations. Gaudreau agreed, adding, “While I did feel an internal pressure, I quickly realized I was driving myself crazy trying to meet particular expectations, and it’s easy to lose sight of your own goals as a cook and individual aesthetic.” Bottom line, most chefs will push themselves creatively “with or without an award,” said Johnson. Tunstall sees the recognition as an insurance policy for his guests. “This gives them more confidence that they can have a great, unique wine experience.” Lata also sees it from the point of view of the restaurant, citing The Ordinary’s 2012 nomination for Best New Restaurant as a feather in their cap. “It was a huge investment for us, and so it gave us a little padding by helping to funnel attention our way.” In the case of Wong, who is building a new brand, she said her previous nominations “helped shorten the path to building a brand and an audience,” without which she would have been more cautious about striking out on her own. When it comes to Charleston as a whole, all the nominees agreed that the city has evolved greatly in the past 20 years. “We are proud of what Charleston has become, so when it is recognized on a national level, it brings to light the great things so many people are doing,” said Johnson. He highlights the city’s sense of community Chef Mike Lata. Chef Kevin Johnson. Chef Cynthia Wong. Chef Matt Tunstall. Photo by Gately Williams. Photo by Andrew Cebulka. Photo by Andrew Cebulka. Photo by John Barnhardt.